Panama; it’s not just the Canal, but a cultural destination full of warm people, culinary freshness, and gorgeous scenery. It’s only a 480 mile wide isthmus connecting North and South America and a crossroads of multiple people groups.
Most international flights arrive in to Panama City (PTY) which is a good starting point to any visit to Panama. While in the city you can visit the Panama Canal (our guides take you right to the edge of the canal for unobstructed viewing), take a food tour and experience a rum tasting, shop for the iconic Panamanian hat, and explore this vibrant area.
Sofitel Casco Viejo
I recommend staying in the Old City, which is a UNESCO Heritage Site. I stayed at the Sofitel Casco Viejo which used to be the Union Club built in 1917. Accommodations are elegantly modern but with a classic vibe including herringbone wood floors, 4-poster beds, decorative tiles and clawfoot tubs in the bathrooms. Most rooms and suites have balconies with views of the ocean. The room pictured below is the Superior King with Juliet balcony. Butler service is available in some room categories (ask for the luxurious bath).
Amarla
If you want a smaller, boutique hotel, consider Amarla, which opened in 2022 with only 6 guest rooms. Decor is very authentic and the hotel has a jacuzzi on the rooftop along with a restaurant as you enter the lobby. If you don’t mind a cozy room, this hotel is perfect for a couple.
Hotel La Compania Casco Antiguo, Hyatt Unbound property
If you prefer a full-service hotel with several restaurants on property, check out La Compania, a Hyatt Prive resort. After an 8-year renovation the hotel opened in 2022 and it’s a living museum. The hotel consists of 3 buildings. The first one was built in 1688 as a Jesuit monastery. Second building was built in 1739 and was designed by the French. Third building was built in 1904 by the Americans. The bones of the buildings are original but the decor matches the building’s history. The Jesuit section is the most popular but also the smallest. You can request a specific section of the hotel but it’s not a guarantee you will get it. All three are very lovely and you will be happy in any of them.
There are 6 different restaurants with different cuisine types located on property. We dined in El Santuario which is a mix of Panamanian/Spanish along with Asian/Indian. I’m not really sure what we had since our host ordered for us but it was all wonderful! After a hot morning of touring the city it was nice to have their refreshing homemade limeade.
Panama Canal
One of the main highlights is to visit the Panama Canal which was finished in 1914 after the French tried to build it in the 1800s. As you can see from the photos I’ve already shared, both the French and Americans have had a huge cultural influence on the area. Be sure to view the IMAX movie before seeing a transiting ship which explains the history and science behind the building of the canal. Our travelers have special access up close to the canal (see the yellow box in the bottom right photo – that’s where our guests watch). Most of the transits occur in the mornings or late afternoons so plan your day accordingly.
The best way to get to other parts of Panama is to fly. We flew Air Panama from the regional airport (PAC) next to the Canal to David in order to get to our next two destinations, Bouquete and Isla Palenque.
Boquete, Panama
Boquete is about an hour north of David and at around 3500′ – 6000′ above sea level depending on where you are in the mountains. It’s located along the river on the side of the mountain which makes it a great destination for birding, monkeys, and some other wildlife and the recommended length of stay is 3-4 nights. To the west of the main area of Boquete is Baru Volcano.
This area is called the highlands and sometimes the cloud forest due to the elevation. Temperatures are cooler which makes it the perfect location for coffee growers. We visited Finca Lerida Coffee plantation for lunch, tasting, and farm tour. I’m not a big coffee drinker but the tasting was very interesting and very good. Since it has a large expat community you can find restaurants with global influences.
I’m still dreaming about the lunch at Finca Lerida. The tree tomato chutney grilled cheese will forever be one of my top 10 meals of all times. It was so simple but absolutely tasty. Having a real coke in a glass bottle didn’t hurt either.
The plantation has a small hotel so if you prefer to be a bit farther out of town in a quiet and mountainous area, this is the place to be.
Panamonte Inn
We stayed at Panamonte Inn which was built in 1914 and has 25 rooms. It’s very charming and sits just at the edge of town so you can walk to most of the restaurants and shops. They are building several new hotel rooms and an event space. The restaurant serves all 3 meals and very authentic fare and service was wonderful and attentive. The best evening spot is in the bar by the outdoor fireplace.
Giant Millenary Quercus Tree Hike
On our first full day in Boquete we made it to 5000’ elevation for a gentle hike. This was not that gentle as the 1 mile route had an elevation change of 420’ which is tough when you start at 5000’. We were told there’s a gorgeous waterfall at the end (route is up and back) but we didn’t make it that far. Terrain was rough roads, rocks and streams, and a couple of “bridges” made out of pipes. We did see lots of birds, followed a family of howler monkeys for a bit, and our guide pointed out native fruit trees and other native vegetation. Highly recommend using a guide as we would have missed so much.
Hacienda Mamoncillo Culinary Experience
Not a restaurant but the highlight of our time in Boquete. Back up to 5500’ elevation for a literal farm to table dining experience. The owners of the farm started transforming the land in 2012 to what it is today with their pre-teen children. They offer a half-day experience with a hike around the property followed by either lunch or dinner but we only had time for a short tour of the greenhouse before dinner. Their home was built with local materials and had a tree-house feeling. The evening was so magical because the power was out that day so the meal was prepared and eaten by candlelight. The 6-course dinner was amazing! We dined on cayote ceviche, goat cheese tart, chicken tacos with homemade hot sauce, lamb with bonsai carrots (their own invention of the tiniest and tastiest carrots I’ve ever eaten), stew with tostones, and homemade ice cream with passion fruit sauce. Almost everything served was “harvested” from their farm, including the animals. This is not an experience you can find on Viator as it’s only bookable by travel advisors. Availability is limited so book early.
Gulf of Chiriqui
We drove south back to David and the further south towards the gulf. You will find fishing villages dotting the coastline along with dozens of islands. Many guests spend 3-4 nights in the area.
Isla Palenque
15 minute boat transfer from the mainland (Boca Chica) is Isla Palenque which is a self-sustaining resort that encompasses all 400 acres of the island. We stayed 2 nights in the luxury beachfront villa complete with an infinity pool on the main level and a shallower pool below, main level living area with dining room, lower level bar, walkway down to the beach including an outdoor shower to clean off the sand, kayaks and SUP. The villa comes with a chef and a waiter/bartender. All meals are included in your stay on the island but you pay extra for alcohol. Two of the bedrooms have direct ocean views with the lower bedroom having an outdoor shower. The other 4 bedrooms have either garden or obstructed views of the water and are smaller. Two of these also have outdoor showers.
Service was outstanding and the food authentic and wonderful. We asked our chef to explain how to make coconut rice after our first meal and I can still remember the smell when the bartender was cutting up a passion fruit to make our margaritas.
You can walk the island but it’s rough terrain and no signs which makes it very easy to get lost. Ask the staff to give you rides in their 4WD vehicles. The other side of the island housed the 8 beachfront casitas. Each one is a stand-alone casita with toes in the sand right outside the casita. Inside you will find a king bed and a day bed for 3rd guest. Out the back is the bathroom with 2 sinks and shower which are covered and a bathtub off to the side under the palms. They can add a 3rd bed for a 4th guest but only for small children. Larger families will need additional casitas. Not far from the casitas is the main restaurant, pool, and concierge/front desk.
The resort offers activities throughout the day and most are included in the rate. We kayaked the first afternoon over to a neighboring beach with one of the resort guides. You will see mangroves, fish, and experience the strong tides.
Half-day Island hopping catamaran
We spent our time on a 53’ catamaran exploring the gulf. The area is so large that we never were officially in the Pacific Ocean. The crew served lunch and beverages throughout the trip. We stopped and snorkeled off a small reef for a while. Highly recommend this experience to see more islands and a chance to get on the water. Saw lots of whales (season is July to October) and dolphins.
The next morning we transferred back to David to fly back to Panama City. The airport we flew in and out of is not the main airport (PTY) but a smaller airport located next to the canal.
Santa Maria, a Luxury Collection and Golf Resort
Most guests who visit other parts of Panama will need to stay in Panama City another night before flying home. Santa Maria is the perfect option as it’s just a few minutes from PTY. The hotel is an urban resort located in a residential section of the city with 100+ rooms, outdoor heated pool, golf course, conference space, spa, 5 restaurants, and an outdoor center.
Panama is similar in landscape to Costa Rica but can be a totally different experience. Panama has history, culture, and a large city waiting to be explored but Costa Rica has more wildlife. Both have adventure, mountain regions including volcanos, and beaches. Costa Rica has more luxury options but Panama is more authentic because it’s not been overtouristed. I wasn’t sure what to expect but was quite surprised by the authenticity of the hotels, amazing food, and the warm and hospitable people.
If you are curious if a trip to Panama is right for you, please reach out and let’s discuss. Or if you are interested in neighboring Costa Rica, check out my review HERE.